Excerpt:
As Madame’s print ads (featuring a photo of an over-the-top, larger-than-life, aging Southern belle) make clear, the place is not just a restaurant. It’s also a cabaret — though describing it as “turn-of-the-century Parisian” suggests a sophistication that’s not there. An early menu I saw also hinted that Miss Kitty, as in Meow, might be in-house; dishes all sported the names of South Beach’s most famous drag queens. The current menu’s dishes, though, seem to be named for Madame’s servers, each of whom periodically disappears for twenty minutes or so to take a turn lip-synching on the stage — and some are good. But not all servers, or even the majority, are drag queens, which can be jarring in terms of the entertainment; let’s face it, a woman lip-synching Liza Minnelli just doesn’t seem right. And Madame’s only well-known SoBe drag queen is Electra. Fortunately Electra is Madame. S/he was also Lucille Ball, Bette Midler, and Cher during our visits — Electra’s own onstage stints seemed to run at least one per hour, with amusing audience interactions in between.
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